Which retinoid is best for your skin?

When we think of antiaging skincare products, the first thing that comes to mind is Retinol. Of late, another closely related ingredient has become popular in India particularly among beauty influencers, and that is Tretinoin.

Are they related to each other? Which is a better option for antiaging without side effects? Let’s break it all down in this article.

Both retinol and tretinoin are different forms or derivatives of Vitamin A, belonging to a class known as ‘Retinoids’.

But, they differ in potency, availability and how they work on our skin.

What is Retinol?

Retinol is a widely known antiaging skincare ingredient that helps improve skin texture, reduce fine lines & wrinkles and delay signs of aging. It is mostly available as over the counter antiaging creams and serums and has milder negative effects.

What is Tretinoin?

Also known as Retinoic Acid, tretinoin is the most active form of Vitamin A and is available only under a doctor’s prescription. It is most commonly used to treat acne, photodamaged skin and many other dermatological conditions.

It is fast acting and more potent than retinol as it is directly active on the skin and often comes with side effects if not used carefully as instructed by the doctor.

How do they work on my skin?

Once applied on the skin, retinol enters the skin cells and undergoes a 2 step conversion for it to activate cell turnover.

At first, retinol gets converted into retinaldehyde and then finally into retinoic acid, aka tretinoin.

Tretinoin is the final form that directly binds with certain retinoid receptors inside the nucleus(the control centre of the cell) and works at the gene level to activate the cell turnover, followed by collagen synthesis.

So, retinol acts as a precursor or parent molecule to tretinoin. As it needs to undergo changes inside the cell to deliver its effects, retinol is considered a milder and more user friendly version compared to tretinoin.

How strong is Tretinoin compared to Retinol?

Tretinoin is considered to be roughly 10 to 20 times more potent than an equivalent concentration of retinol. This is because tretinoin works directly at the cellular level, while retinol’s effectiveness depends on how efficiently it converts into tretinoin in the skin. Studies show that 0.25% retinol is comparable in efficacy to 0.025% tretinoin, and 0.5% retinol is equivalent to 0.05% tretinoin and so on. However, the strength of retinol depends on the formulation and absorption. Therefore, the effectiveness of retinol is more formulation dependent than just concentration alone.

Even though tretinoin delivers faster results, it is still a prescription product with high irritation potential. Hence, use tretinoin only if recommended by your dermatologist and stick to the duration suggested by them.

How to get started on Retinol?

Well, this depends on the concern you would like to target.

If you are new to retinoids and looking for a gentler, long-term antiaging solution, retinol is a great place to start.

Also, it is important to remember that the effectiveness and irritation potential of retinol highly depends on the formulation.

Key Differences:

How to choose the right retinol for my skin?

Though retinol is well tolerated for long-term use, higher concentrations can still irritate your skin if not formulated or used properly. Also, factors like high humidity & high sebum secretion can interfere with retinol penetration, leading to patchy irritation and substandard results.

To overcome these challenges, it is best to choose a dermatologist formulated retinol product, as they know the skin best!

Retinolite retinol series from CHOSEN is one such innovation as it is formulated with slow-release encapsulated ATR retinol that has the ability to minimize irritation. Also, it comes in two easily spreadable forms:

• Retinolite Serum - a lightweight water-based retinol formulation for oily, acne prone skin that spreads and absorbs quickly without any greasiness.
• Retinolite Creme - a luxurious cream-based retinol formulation for those with dry skin that spreads easily during application.

When can I start using retinol for my skin and is it necessary to use it daily?

For Acne & Pigmentation: You can start anytime, if you struggle with breakouts or uneven skin tone.

For Anti-Aging: Mid 20s is a good time to incorporate retinol into your routine to delay early signs of aging.

Retinol can be used once daily but most people often find it challenging to use everyday especially in humid conditions. So an alternative way is to follow skin cycling routine where you can use retinol with other face serums or moisturizers on alternate days. Here are some highly effective skin cycling protocols, that users totally love. This way you can minimize the chances of irritation and experience maximum results.

Key tips while using retinol:

• Always use retinol in your PM routine as retinol can be degraded by sunlight during the day.
• Make sure to use a durable sunscreen during the day for best results.
• Avoid rubbing retinol onto the skin during application. Instead, apply gently and spread evenly to prevent irritation.
• Build a good skincare routine and follow it consistently for visible results.

You can explore the high performance Retinolite series from CHOSEN.

You might also like to read:
1. The Best Anti-Ageing Retinol Crème is Here
2. Retinolite Serum: The Best Anti-Aging Serum to Turn Back Time
3. All about the trending anti-ageing molecule - EGF